Exciting Life Of A Meteorite Hunter

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Sunburned and a little haggard after a long day of meteorite hunting in the Arizona desert.
Self portrait by the author
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During my childhood years in London Monty Python’s Flying Circus was the most controversial and talked-about show on television. My father wryly encouraged me to stay up until 9:25 pm and watch each new weekly BBC episode. It aired on a school night, which worried my mom and, anyway, she found the racy and provocative content entirely inappropriate for a young lad. My mom was a brilliant woman, and that was one of the few times I remember her being clearly in error. I remain a Python fan to this day and recently, as a most thoughtful gift, received the entire collected episodes in a DVD boxed set.

The other night, I once again found myself watching the “Vocational Guidance Counselor Sketch.” Michael Palin — my favorite Python — plays a delightfully timid chartered accountant who visits a career advisor, acted out in a typically snide and officious manner by the uniquely weird John Cleese. Mr. Palin’s sweet and mousy character complains, delicately, about how bored he is after twenty years as an accountant, and how he yearns to switch to a truly exciting new vocation, such as lion taming.

Palin’s lament reminded me of how often I hear the remark: “What an exciting life you lead,” from people I meet while pursuing my unusual profession. Yes, it is exciting, at times, and yes I am lucky to be able to follow my passion, but the realities of international adventuring can be quite taxing. So, I thought I might share with my readers a tongue-in-cheek overview of some less glamorous moments in the exciting life of a meteorite hunter.

Whilst in the pursuit of space rocks, I have suffered from sunburn, windburn, sun stroke, altitude sickness, exposure, exhaustion, food poisoning, concussion, dehydration, along with plenty of other everyday, run-of-the-mill maladies.

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Not at my best. Catching my breath after a hot day of hunting in the deep south. Note the snake gators held together with duct tape, to protect my legs from dangerous reptiles. Photograph by Sonny Clary.

I have been accused of being “overenthusiastic” in the field, and even though I do my best to stay focused and act in a semi-sensible manner, the sheer number of days spent in remote areas has resulted in my exterior surface being scratched, cut, burned, or otherwise injured by barbed wire, regular wire, rusty vintage farm machinery, a portable gasoline stove, ATVs and 4WD trucks, poison ivy, scorpion weed, other unidentified allergens, rocks, rock hammers, bamboo, corn stalks, every type of thorn, bramble and cactus, and shocked by electric fences. I also got knocked senseless by a heavy truck door blown shut by a micro burst, and had a finger crushed between two shockingly powerful rare earth magnets.

I have been bitten by mosquitoes, gnats, chiggers, black flies, robber flies, fire ants, various types of spiders and a cattle dog. I have experienced close encounters with rattlesnakes, many kinds of other snakes, alligators, tarantulas, scorpions, two angry bald eagles with very large talons, Lynx rufus (the Sonoran lynx) and more than one pack of hungry wily coyotes.

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Arctic swamps. Hiking inside the Popigai Crater, Siberia in full anti-insect gear. The ground freezes solid in winter, and during the brief Arctic summer, the air is alive with oversized, and very hungry, mosquitoes. Photograph by Geoffrey Notkin.

During the execution of my duties I was very nearly arrested and incarcerated by three armed and jackbooted Chilean police officers (it got as far as the hands on the guns part), after getting into an altercation with a crooked bar owner. I have been accosted by uniformed Russian soldiers and police, and the Mexican Army, and twice had my passport confiscated. While meteorite hunting or transporting meteorites, I have been stopped and searched by police, customs and/or security officers in numerous different countries, U.S. Department of Homeland Security, U.S. Border Patrol, accused of being a terrorist by an Illinois Sheriff, and barked at by a Park Ranger who thought I was using a metal detector on the site of a national monument (I wasn’t; it’s illegal).

Items stolen from me during regular operations include: the Aerolite Meteorites company checkbook, pens and field notebooks, maps, sunglasses, a Nikon camera, a suitcase, an Acculab digital scale, important business records, the charger for my cell phone (!?) and a recently worn (and likely smelly) “I Dig Space Rocks” t-shirt. Really, who would want such a thing?

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Jungle survival training with Rob Reisner and Sonny Clary (actually, we were hunting for meteorites in the American deep south). Photograph by Geoffrey Notkin.

While traveling in strange parts of the world, and when there was literally no alternative, I have been required to subsist on Cliff Bars, reindeer burgers, porridge with flies in it, steamed abalone which had the consistency of truck tires, and some type of large, slimy and hideous freshwater eel plucked from a frigid lake far north of the Arctic Circle. While this dietary supplement list may not sound too appalling to some, please consider that under normal circumstances I am a strict vegetarian!

I survived a drinking competition involving vodka, wine, “And now the Georgian brandy!” with the field support staff of the Siberian Geological Survey (a tougher bunch of guys I never met) and then foolishly accepted a challenge which resulted in me leaping into a Siberian river at 2 am and swimming a few hundred yards. I received a standing ovation and round of applause from our comrades, so I did it a second time.

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The author and Steve Arnold rescuing equipment after our truck got stranded deep in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile, while traveling to the Imilac meteorite strewnfield.

I have lived through one substantial earthquake, two hurricanes, a stranded truck in the heart of the Atacama Desert, a dead ATV in the middle of a winter blizzard in the snow belt of upstate New York (we had to tow the ATV home behind another quad), an encounter with desert pirates in Nevada, a gurgling uncapped oil well at the bottom of an excavation hole in Kansas, an impromptu margarita party at the edge of Area 51, and an unexploded air-to-air guided missile which somehow came to rest atop a large rock outcrop in the Arizona desert.

While hunting, or on the way to suspected hunting zones, I have traveled by foot, horse, mountain bike, scooter, dirt bike, ATV, regular cars, vans and buses, 4WD vehicles including Steve Arnold’s canary yellow hummer, a wooden raft hand made from pine trees, life rafts, a hydrofoil, an Mi-8 cargo helicopter, and every type of airplane from a Cessna to a Jumbo Jet.

While searching for meteorites with metal detectors, I have accidentally found or helped excavate Frontier-era wagon wheels, two coyote traps, Civil War bullets and belt buckles, a 30-gallon steel drum inside of a 55-gallon drum, artillery shrapnel, bullets, shotgun shells, ball bearings, hot rocks, unidentifiable pieces of machinery, 19th-Century forged iron tools, a chain big enough to hold down a battleship, beer cans, cans of beans, rusted buckets, and part of several old cars.

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With my pal Rusty Johnson on board a Russian Mi-8 helicopter, en route to a hunting site.
Photograph by Katya Rossovskaya.

So, I know you’re asking yourself something along the lines of: “Then why do you keep doing it?” Simply: there really is nothing more exciting that digging space rocks.

Except maybe working as a lion tamer.

WATCH THE SKIES!

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Texas Fireball Spurs International Meteorite Hunt

As Sherlock Holmes used to say to his pal Watson whenever a new chase began: “The game’s afoot!”

Two independent groups led by my colleagues Ron Dilulio, and Mike Farmer, have found small freshly-fallen stone meteorites on the ground near Waco, Texas. They are almost certainly associated with the bright daytime fireball witnessed over Austin, TX on the afternoon of February 15.

Where there’s one meteorite, there are often more, and we’re not missing out on this adventure. My long-time friend and expedition partner, world famous meteorite hunter Steve Arnold, is already in the strewnfield, and I’ll be heading out there within a few days along with Aerolite Meteorites team member Suzanne Morrison.

We’ll be fireball chasing in the Lone Star state and will post news when we have it.

In the meantime . . .

WATCH THE SKIES!

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Meteorites Rock at the 2009 Tucson Gem and Mineral Show

On Saturday afternoon, around 4 pm, we closed the showroom. It was the final day of my thirteenth consecutive show and — unlike the majority of things in the modern world — the Tucson gem shows really do get bigger and better each year. With 4,000+ dealers from practically every country on earth, over forty separate shows, and 50,000+ buyers and visitors, it’s exhausting just to think about trying to see everything, but no amount of browsing and touring can prepare you for the experience of being a Tucson show vendor.

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The author outside the Aerolite Meteorites show room with his custom neon sign.
Photo by Jim Breitinger of Utahredrock.

Our showroom, Suite 230 at the lovely InnSuites at Granada and Saint Mary’s was open from 10 am to 6 pm for fifteen consecutive days, plus four more for set up, breakdown, and load out, along with weeks of preparation: selecting specimens for the displays, making ID cards and labels, designing flyers, ads, room signs and handouts. Many evenings we stayed open late, serving wine to our friends and customers, talking space rocks, and listening to Vivaldi or the Two Siberians’ modern take on traditional Russian folk instrumentals. My elegant and cultured showroom partner, Anne Black of Impactika Meteorites in Denver, favors a classical soundtrack, so we’d wait for the evenings she left a little early for business dinners before putting Franz Ferdinand or Van Morrison on the CD player.

A gorgeous highly sculptural 619-gra Gibeon iron meteorite acquired from one of my African contacts during the 2009 gem show

A gorgeous highly sculptural 619-gram Gibeon iron meteorite acquired from one of my African contacts during the 2009 gem show

Suite 230 sits at the back of the courtyard, right in the middle, at the top of a flight of concrete stairs. We enjoy a terrific view of the lawn, and I often stared enviously at some of our downstairs colleagues who had the foresight to bring along deck chairs — and the time to use them. There is something reassuring and uniquely “Tucson Show” about a German gemologist and a British fossil dealer drinking Mexican beer under a palm tree on a sunny February afternoon.

With my friend and show room partner Anne Black in Room 230. Photograph by Tim Arbon.

With my friend and show room partner Anne Black in Room 230. Photograph by Tim Arbon.

Once again, we were were lucky enough to have excellent neighbors. Low Country Geologic from Charleston, South Carolina, dig their own fossil shark teeth from murky and muddy southern rivers, and always arrive with a staggering display of giant-size fangs from Carcharadon megalodon — the biggest and scariest shark of all time. As is typical of so many rockhounds, our neighbors enjoy a drink the evening, and we were forever running from room to room borrowing corkscrews, trading bottles of wine, and comparing notes on the finest English beers. And it’s in those moments that the show really shines. The sun has set, most of the day customers have gone home, our red, blue and gold neon METEORITES sign glows radiantly in the window. An amazing and eccentric collection of international prospectors, treasure hunters and paleontologists kick back, reflect on the day’s sales, muse about that could-be upcoming “big deal,” and maybe pause for just a moment to notice that they really are part of the greatest show on earth.

Tucson rocks. See you next year, same time, same room, even better space rocks. 49 weeks and counting.

Categories: Gem & Mineral Shows | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

A Cool New Science Magazine and a Very Cool New Meteorite Article

Unlike many of my colleagues, I really enjoy doing media interviews, especially when I have the pleasure of working with a particularly thoughtful, bright and inventive journalist. A few weeks ago, I received a call from Eleanor Perry-Smith, a writer at Northwestern University in Illinois. She was working on a the premiere issue of a hip new science magazine named SciQ. With a tag line like “Feed Your Head” how could I possibly resist participating?

Feature article on meteorites in the premiere issue of SciQ magazine showing MeteoriteBlog author Geoffrey Notkin on the east rim of Meteor Crater, Arizona. Photograph © by Aerolite Meteorites; article layout and content © by SciQ Magazine

Feature article on meteorites in the premiere issue of SciQ magazine showing MeteoriteBlog author Geoffrey Notkin on the east rim of Meteor Crater, Arizona. Photograph © by Aerolite Meteorites; article layout and content © by SciQ Magazine

It turned out that Eleanor’s father is a fellow meteorite enthusiast and he and I once met at the Denver Gem and Mineral Show, which runs over a long weekend each September, and is an event that I particularly look forward to. Eleanor and I did a series of telephone interviews and covered the familiar topics: “Where do you hunt for meteorites?” and “How much are meteorites worth?” but she also asked a number of completely unique and original questions which were entirely new to me. How very refreshing it was! When we were finished, I mailed a CD-ROM of original photographs along to her, selected from years of adventuring and picture taking.

After the interview comes the waiting. I’m always excited to see a new feature on meteorites, but I’ve learned not to expect too much, since the final manuscript typically has to go through a series of editors, designers and production people. Mistakes are often made; sometimes quotes are even changed, and you can’t please everyone.

When the comp copies of SciQ arrived last week, the first thing that caught my eye was a choice adventure shot on the Contents page (your blogger waist deep in a freezing river in Europe, digging into muddy banks in search of buried treasure) alongside a subhead which reads:

ROCK STARS
Meet the Indiana Joneses in search of space
treasures in the meteorite-hunting world

Well that was sure a great start, but it just got better and better. Pages 36 and 37 present a gorgeous spread [see above] with a large color reproduction of that striking Meteor Crater east rim photo and a big, modern headline which shouts out: “ROCK THE COSMOS.” I assumed it just had to be a play on the Clash’s 1982 rock ‘n’ roll song “Rock the Casbah,” and when I later mentioned that to Eleanor she replied: “I knew you’d like the Clash reference.” Since they are my all-time top band, I couldn’t have been much happier. The article includes brief interviews with Anne Black, vice-president of the IMCA, and veteran meteorite dealer Edwin “E.T.” Thompson as well as an introduction to seminal American meteorite hunter and scientist Harvey Nininger, and highlights from some of my adventures (and misadventures) in Chile’s Atacama Desert and the Arctic Circle in northern Siberia.

SciQ magazine is a new publication delivering “engaging, culturally savvy science and technology,” reports project director Patti Wolter, and is the progeny of fourteen graduate students in the Magazine Publishing Project at the Medill School of Journalism. What a superb exercise in practical experience for this team of  students! SciQ is an exciting, engaging, well designed and well written new science magazine. If you’d seen it on a shelf at your local newsagent, you’d never guess for an instant that it was a student project — it more interesting and better designed than many of its big-budget competitors.

The entire publication is well worth a read, especially “Rock the Cosmos.” Unfortunately, the meteorite feature is not available online, so visit their website and order a copy for only $4.95. Hats off to everyone involved, especially Eleanor — my new favorite interviewer.

LEARN MORE ABOUT METEORITES

Please visit my company site, Aerolite Meteorites, for one of the web’s finest selections of meteorites for sale, meteorite jewelry, Libyan Desert Glass from Egypt. Latest additions include superb Sikhote-Alin iron meteorites from Russia, with remarkable sculptural features such as natural holes, flow lines and orientation.

And don’t forget to watch the skies!

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The Tucson Gem and Mineral Show 2009 Here it Comes Again

It was back in 1998 that I made my first journey to the Tucson gem and mineral shows. I was living just outside of New York City at the time, and although I had already fallen in love with Arizona as a ten year-old boy, and had traveled extensively across my favorite state in the Union, I’d never actually been to Tucson — the seat of Pima County and a small, eclectic, eccentric, charming city in the Sonoran Desert.

The author at the 2008 Tucson gem show, admiring a large stone meteorite found in the Sahara Desert. Photograph by Lisa Marie, Sirocco Design.

The author at the 2008 Tucson gem show, admiring a large stone meteorite found in the Sahara Desert. Photograph by Lisa Marie, Sirocco Design.

A few months earlier, I returned from a hair-raising three-week meteorite hunting expedition across Chile’s stunningly barren and vast Atacama Desert, in the company of my friend, meteorite hunter Steve Arnold. Steve was living near Tulsa, Oklahoma at the time and we decided to rendezvous in Odessa, Texas, where we did a little hunting at the famous meteorite crater, and then head on to Tucson.

I had read, several times, that the Tucson gem show was the biggest of its kind in the world, and that among the diamonds, dinosaurs, jewelry, crafts, Moroccan rugs and African drums, we would find a number of meteorite dealers and collectors. But nothing could have prepared me for the size and vigor of the show — which is in no way “a” show, but rather more than forty separate shows which run concurrently during the first half of February each year.

After that, I never missed a show. February became the highlight of each year, partly because it’s my birthday month, and partly because I could leave chilly, snowy, dirty New York for a week or two and enjoy gentle winter sunshine in southern Arizona. And look at rocks, all day, every day. What could be better than that?

As the years went by, I became less and less enamored with life in the big city and eventually moved to Tucson permanently. I loved the gem show so much, I figured we might just as well live in the same town. Okay, it wasn’t only the gem show. I love the mountains; the desert; the wild coyotes, bobcats and hawks; cactus forests; and the vibrant Mexican culture and influence. I actually can now good eat good Mexican food, every day, for the rest of my life.

Collectively, the big events are known as the Tucson gem and mineral shows, or showcases. The Tucson Gem and Mineral Show™ was the progenitor of the whole thing. It started back in 1955 and its benevolent parent is the Tucson Gem and Mineral Society. That show continues to this day, is the largest and best-attended of all the different events, and is so vast it is held in the Tucson Convention Center. We call it “The Main Show” and it runs for a long weekend in mid-February. It is very popular with school groups, tourists and collectors.
However, most of the show venues are actually ordinary hotels — retro-fitted for the duration. Thousands of vendors from all over the planet rent rooms and suites, remove the furniture and replace it with display cases, lights, gems, fossils, gold nuggets, meteorites, and the assorted natural history wealth of the world. There are a very few wholesale events which require dealer identification for entry, but by far the majority of shows are free and open to the public, and visiting any of the participating show hotels is a colorful and exciting experience.

I am now an exhibitor at the gem show. What started as my fun and much-anticipated winter jaunt to Tucson, is now a complex and all-consuming business. My meteorite company, Aerolite Meteorites, shares Suite 230 at the InnSuites Hotel (475 North Granada, Tucson, AZ) with Anne Black — a charming French meteorite dealer, and one of the few women in our business. The InnSuites is my favorite of all the show hotels. In addition to a lush green lawn, shady orange trees, a nice pool and decent bar with a dealer-friendly happy hour, the InnSuites features a wide variety of vendors, rather than just one field. Our hotel is the best place for meteorite and fossils, but you can also find egg-sized gold nuggets, ghostly florescent minerals, seashells, and some of the best trilobites in the world.

This year we will open our doors on Saturday, January 31 (just a day before my birthday) and we will remain open all day, every day, until Saturday, February 14. It is a long haul, and very expensive for us. It costs thousands of dollars to rent a suite, pay our assistants, pony up the a show fee to our promoter, eat, drink, and be merry. But it’s what we do, and even though it can be a grind, at times, it’s an inspiring experience to be part of the biggest and best event of its kind in the history of our planet.

As a fun little bonus, last year I designed a special custom METEORITES neon sign for the showroom, and had it manufactured by a local neon artist. It was a big hit. I have always loved neon — one of American’s true original contributions to modern art.

We sell meteorites; impactites; meteorite books and museum catalogs; thin sections; meteorite jewelry, t-shirts, and collectibles; and anything else interesting that we can fit into our room packed, as it is, full of rare and amazing rocks from outer space. We make the most of it: socializing with friends, swapping adventure stories, cracking a bottle of wine in the evening and putting on some mellow jazz around sunset. If you’re in Tucson for the show, please stop by and say hello. It’s a great time, and we’d be delighted if you had the experience of holding a genuine meteorite in your hand for the first time.

Click here to learn all about Arizona’s Tucson gem and mineral show including a Tucson restaurant and dining guide, and a list of featured Tucson show dealers and vendors.

WATCH THE SKIES!

Categories: Gem & Mineral Shows | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Down to Earth

I stole today’s title from my friend and former publisher, Dr. Joel Schiff, founder and original editor of Meteorite magazine. Every issue, he’d write a concise and thoughtful editorial under the heading “Down to Earth.” I always found it so very clever, since Joel is a thoughtful and down-to-earth person and — of course — meteorites are things which fall down to earth. Despite what the church thought back in the Middle Ages.

The reasoning went something like this: Since god was supposed to have created the heavens, and since — of course — anything that god created had to be perfect, then claiming that stones could fall from the heavens suggest that the heavens were not perfect. And that just wouldn’t do. The official viewpoint of the Roman Catholic Church was, therefore, that meteorites could not exist. Such logical reasoning!

That all changed on the afternoon of April 26, 1803 when literally thousands of stone meteorites rained down — in bright daylight — upon farmer’s fields in the French town of l’Aigle (“the eagle”). The eminent physicist Jean Baptiste Biot was dispatched to the scene, where he collected and described numerous freshly-fallen specimens. Over the centuries, those specimens found their way into prominent collections, and I once had the pleasure of handling some of those actual pieces in the secret basement collection room of the Museum of Natural History, London. With preserved fusion crust as black as liquorice and meticulously written specimen cards (all in French and with an appropriate fountain pen flourish), those fabulous historic and history-changing rocks took me right back to the earliest days of meteorite collecting.

Well, Biot’s resulting paper, supported by scores of eyewitness accounts meant the stubborn church views eventually had to give way. And the most interesting part about this tale is that even though the Vatican’s position was that meteorites could not exist, that viewpoint did not stop them from quietly putting together one of the world’s largest collections of space rocks. Despite the official company line, they knew something was going on. Or falling down, might be more accurate.

So, what do we learn from this 19th-Century story? Try to keep an open mind? The heavens actually are not perfect? Always take the word of a French physicist over the Pope? I’ll go with three out of three on that.

Watch the skies and please check out my latest science column: “Impactites: Ghostly Footprints of Ancient Meteorite Impacts” on Geology.com

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